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Clonakilla are one of our nation's most eminent vineyard wineries, a tiny production operation, established by a CSIRO scientist at Murrumbateman, very near Canberra. It turned out to be a fortuitous planting, with a climate not dissimilar to Bordeaux and northern Rhone, the Clonakilla property now occupies a rank next to the mighty Grange on the prestigious Exceptional Langtons Classification, it yields vintages of Australia's most invaluable Shiraz. At $26.99, the estate's entry level belies its stature and excellence within the pantheon of great Australian wine, an essential experience this week for all enthusiasts, a canny choice for shrewd and judicious aspirants of elite new world Shiraz... Here's what our most picky pundits prefer»
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dArenberg Footbolt Shiraz CONFIRM VINTAGE

Shiraz McLaren Vale South Australia
Joseph Rowe Osborn was born in 1852, he was a lay preacher, mining speculator, public servant, teetotaler and local politician. Osborn joined Thomas Hardy & Sons in 1881, eventually becoming a partner and director. He invested in a chestnut colt which won a fortune at the races and changed his life forever. Footbolt was the first wine in McLaren Vale to be labelled as Old Vine. When the moniker became common practice it was altered to commemorate the racehorse which played a pivotal role in the establishment of d'Arenberg.
Available by the dozen
Case of 12
$275.00
Joseph Osborn purchased the nascent McLaren Vale Milton Vineyards in 1912. Components of today's Footbolt Shiraz are still sourced off the original vines acquired by Osborn a century ago. Small batches are passed through a gentle open roller crusher, some berries remain whole, followed by transfer to five tonnes headed down open fermenters. When tannin extraction is just right, the wine is basket pressed and filled to a mixture of new and older American and French oak barriques and large casks for completion of ferments and malolactic. Barrels are aged for a year on lees to keep the wine fresh and reduce influence of oak, remaining unracked until the final assemblage, unfiltered and unfined.
Deep bright scarlet colour. Enticing mix of red and black fruits, mulberries and ripe blackberry, exotic spice supports the fruit, nutmeg and cinnamon, anise and clove, it wouldn’t be Footbolt without that generous lick of d’Arenberg earth and game. On the palate the wine is rich, concentrated and generous, an intrinsic warmth, the dark plummy fruit, leather and cedar notes, soily tannins with a hint of chewiness, pulls it all together for a long, gratifying finish.
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The heart of McLaren Vale, past and present, d’Arenberg is one of the most significant wineries in Australia

In 1912 Joseph Osborn, a teetotaller and director of Thomas Hardy and Sons, purchased the well established Milton Vineyards of 25 hectares in the hills just north of the townships of Gloucester and Bellevue, now known as McLaren Vale. Joseph’s son Francis Ernest (‘Frank’) Osborn left medical school, choosing to forsake the scalpel for pruning shears. He soon increased the size of the vineyard to 78 hectares. Fruit was sold to local wineries until the construction of his own cellars was completed in 1928. Dry red table and fortified wines were produced in ever increasing quantities to supply the expanding markets of Europe.

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In 1943 Frank’s son Francis d’Arenberg Osborn, universally known as d’Arry, returned from school, age 16, to help his ill father run the business, eventually assuming full management in 1957. In 1959 d’Arry decided to launch his own label d’Arenberg, named in honour of his mother, Frances Helena d’Arenberg.

It was a small and humble start but the wines gained immediate cult status amongst imbibers and judges. The 1968 Cabernet Sauvignon won the Jimmy Watson Trophy at the 1969 Royal Melbourne Wine Show and the 1967 Red Burgundy (Grenache based) was awarded 7 trophies and 29 gold medals in Australian capital city wine shows. By the 1970’s d’Arenberg wines had become very fashionable, having gained a significant national and international profile in less than 20 years.

Enter the fourth generation, d’Arry’s son Chester d’Arenberg Osborn. From a very early age Chester was focused on continuing his family’s winemaking tradition. While growing up on the family property he helped his father d’Arry in both the vineyards and the cellar floor during school semester breaks and Christmas holidays. After graduating from Roseworthy College and touring other Australian and European wine regions, Chester took over the reins as Chief Winemaker in 1984. He immediately set about returning the family’s vineyards to their traditional grape growing practices of minimal inputs and no fertilisation, cultivation and irrigation wherever possible, therefore achieving natural soil flavours with very low yields.

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dArenberg is one of the last remaining wineries to basket press their wines. This gentle method of squeezing juice from the grape skins protects the delicate white grapes and is gentle in the process of extracting the flavour, colour and tannins from the reds. The winemaking processes of the past have been maintained, capturing the unique small-batch character of the wines and the true flavour of the McLaren Vale region. Parcels of fruit are kept separate from the time of harvesting, through fermentation, pressing and maturation. When it comes to the blending stage, the winemakers have a wealth of different components with which to create a given wine.

d’Arenberg’s art of being different extends to a range of fortified and dessert wines which hold legendary status worldwide, as well as operating d’Arry’s Verandah Restaurant, one of South Australia’s most loved and highly awarded restaurant, set on a picturesque hilltop adjoining the cellar door tasting room. The reds are still traditionally fermented with the grape skins (caps) submerged in open wax-lined concrete fermenters utilising the age-old technique of foot-treading. Chief Winemaker and Viticulturist Chester is also a bit of a dab hand at steel design - he designed and had built on site new steel fermenters to the exact specifications of the original concrete ones.

In June 2004 Chester’s father, d’Arry was awarded a Medal of the Order of Australia in the Queen’s Birthday Honours for his contributions to the wine industry and to the McLaren Vale region. After more than 65 consecutive vintages d’Arry is very proud of his achievements in creating an internationally recognised wine brand commonly known as the ‘Red Stripe’ due to the distinctive diagonal red stripe that adorns the label.

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